Is Jordan Safe? Here's What We Found Out

Is Jordan Safe? Here's What We Found Out

Jon - 03/21/2011
@eculturesjon with friendly Arab Sheik in Jordan
Is Jordan safe?  To find out, we hitchhiked from the border of Syria to the Red Sea.  We went to cities off the tourist grid, to see how they would react to foreigners.  We relied only on local communities to take care of us and guide us.
 

Our journey began at 7:30 am from the Jordanian/Syrian border.  We walked alongside a row of mechanic shops in the town of Ramtha. Men quickly invited us to stop and have tea.  An hour and a half went by, exchanging stories and embracing warm welcoming smiles.  The fact that it was 8 a.m. didn’t stop them from setting up a hookah for us to enjoy.   At this pace, our plan to arrive at the southern border the following evening was not going to happen.

 

It took some time for us to convince them we had to leave.  When we did, they started shouting around to nearby shops to see if anyone was going to Mufraq, our next destination.  A car quickly pulled up and we were on our way.

The city of Mufraq is not frequented by tourists.  We wanted to see how two Americans would be received.  After some friendly small talk with locals, we discovered it possessed the same characteristic found throughout Jordan: extreme hospitality.
 
As we began to work our way out of town, we found ourselves in good company.  A man in his sixties.  Deep wrinkles spreading out from his eyes. Years of squinting into the sun.  He began sharing with us his pride of being from Mufraq.  “All foreigners are welcome here,” he said.  “We have Muslims and Christians living together, and we are all one.  Anyone is welcome.”
 
We soon found ourselves in a car on the road to Zarqa.  We seized the opportunity to get to know the driver better.  “What do you think about foreigners?”
 
“I want them to have a better understanding of Arabs," he said, "not just from what they see on the news.  I think we can learn from each other.  The base of our religion is to respect all people, all religions.  I respect you, you respect me.”
 
After Zarqa, we found ourselves sitting in a gas truck, being served coffee by the driver (while driving).
 
 

A few rides later, and we were heading down to Shouneh in the Jordan Valley, north of the Dead Sea.  Our driver pointed to a village.  “Any house you walk up to, they’d invite you in.”  He wrote down his name and phone number for us.  “Anything you need here, I’m ready to help.  Just call me.”
 
 
 
 
A local man from Shouneh gave us a short ride to the edge of town.  He had a gentle look about him, one that reminds you of grandpa.  How quickly impressions can be formed, and kindness shown.  He took us as far as he was going.  “Want some tea?  That is my house right there.”  We politely declined; feeling the need to get to a place to sleep before sunset.  After all, it was late afternoon and we had only made it a quarter of the way to the southern border.
 
 
 
From Shouneh, we wanted to go to Ghor al Mazra’a, just south of the Dead Sea.  A young man picked us up.  “I normally don’t pick up hitchhikers,” he said, “but when I saw you were foreigners, I knew I had to help.”  Once again he took us as far as he was going and we stood on the side of the road anticipating who we would meet next.
 
A middle aged couple who lived just south of our next destination were the next to provide us a ride. As we drove, the sun set over the Dead Sea, and the wife served us tea in decorative glass cups. We handed our driver a cell phone so he could get directions to our friend's house in Ghor.  When we arrived, our driver got out of the car and gave our host a big hug, realizing they knew each other.  How small the world is.
 
We arrived in Ghor al Mazra’a just in time to take pictures of the sun setting over Israel and Palestine and take in the amazing view of the Dead Sea.  Jon had met our host, Sa’ed, while participating in an event with the Zikra Initiative.  Sa’ed’s wife just had a new baby and they had invited Jon to come see him.
 
After settling in and being welcomed with tea and the chance to hold the new addition to the family, Sa’ed led us on a tour of his village.  We met and sat with his extended family.  Sa’ed’s life is not easy.  But he is hopeful.  We listened to his dreams for his family’s future; “I want my daughter to become the first woman doctor to come out of our village.”
 
Later that night, we prepared a local authentic tomato dish together and fell asleep to an Egyptian sitcom.  When Jon awoke, he discovered that Sa’ed had covered him with an extra blanket during the night.
 
Being in someone’s home, getting a glimpse of life from their point of view, changes the way you see the world.  It reorganizes your priorities.  We want Sa’ed to see his hopes become reality.
 
 

In the morning, we set out for Karak.  There, we were picked up by a young man making spice deliveries (whom we later nicknamed “Mohammad Spices”).  He drove a bright tangerine-orange truck.  Oregano, thyme, coffee beans, sesame seeds, and various nuts, piled on top of one another.  We’d be welcome to ride with him to Tafila, our next destination, but he first needed to finish his rounds in Karak.  From shop to shop we went, making deliveries.  Each shop we entered, Mohammad introduced us as his friends.  It was the best smelling ride we’d taken our entire trip.
 
 

We were struck by the warmth of the people of Karak, and Mohammad’s rapport with them.  Upon entering each shop, he laughed and joked.   He extended his condolences and shared in the grief of a shop owner who had recently lost a family member.
 
Mohammad Spices bought us lunch and took us to a beautiful spot overlooking an enormous canyon.  We parted in Tafila.  He would continue to call us the rest of the day, making sure we were alright and offering his assistance if we were in need. 
 
 
 
Later that afternoon, we were dropped off at a cement factory, hoping to catch a ride on a truck to the highway.  The cement factory, it turns out, had closed for the evening.   There were no trucks heading to the highway.  There were no cars at all.  We began to walk, hoping someone would come by.  We continued to walk.  The sun continued to set.  Jon’s phone rang.  It was Mohammad Spices.  “Where are you, are you okay?”
 
“We’re fine,” Jon said.  “The road, however, is empty.  We haven’t seen a car for a long time.”
 
“Don’t worry,” he said.  “I’ll come and pick you up.  We’ll drive back to Karak, spend the night with my friend, and you can continue your journey in the morning.”
 
We did not doubt his sincerity.   Wanting to reach the southern border that evening, we declined.
 
The sun set.  It grew dark.  Some time later, headlights crossed the horizon and headed toward us. The car changed lanes and passed.  Our hearts sank.  For the first time we considered that we might have to sleep on the side of the road.  The car stopped.  We ran toward it.  An old Bedouin man in a pickup opened his door, and greeted us with a toothy grin.  “Come in,” he said.  “When I saw you were foreigners, I knew I had to help you.”  He took us to the Desert Highway.
 
Our next driver, Habib, invited us to come to his home for mansaf, the national dish of Jordan.  “If you don’t come to my home and share a meal with my family, I will be mad at you!” he said.
 
We were nearing our destination.  Before entering Aqaba, Jordan’s city on the Red Sea, all semi trucks stop for customs entry papers.  We said our goodbyes to our new friend Habib, hopped out of his semi and walked to the entry point for cars.  The military guards at the checkpoint stopped us.  We explained why we were carless.  Laughing, they shouted to some guards who were greeting cars as they passed into Aqaba.  “These guys need a ride!  Get them a nice car!”
 
We soon found ourselves sitting in the back of a shiny BMW, being served cold juice by the driver and his friend.   Twenty-one cars and a hundred conversations after the start of our journey, we pulled into the Red Sea town on Jordan’s southern border.
 
When we began our trip, we wanted to see if Jordan was a safe destination for travelers.  Setting out from the northern border, we worked our way south.  Not only did we discover that it is safe, our picture of Jordan was enhanced by the remarkable people who call it home.  We were showered with smiles, introduced as friends, and overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of the Jordanian people.
 
Our trip began with tea, laughter, and conversation.  It ended with a profound realization: A life changing experience lies waiting for those who not only visit Jordan's sites, but interact with her people.

 

Comments

Submitted by The Long Way There « Engaging Cultures on Sat, 05/14/2011 - 18:18.

[...] in the region, two American tour operators decided to prove just how safe the country is – by hitchhiking from one end to the [...]

Submitted by Jon on Fri, 04/22/2011 - 19:16.

Thanks Aiman. We appreciate your words. So glad it made you smile.

Submitted by Jon on Fri, 04/22/2011 - 19:15.

Thanks Imogene. It seems your "picture" is born out of experience, not an impression from the evening news. I hope that's the picture that continues to spread.

Submitted by Jon on Fri, 04/22/2011 - 19:10.

Thanks Ken. We do too!

Submitted by Top 10 Reasons Prince William & Kate Middleton Should Honeym on Sun, 04/17/2011 - 21:29.

[...] 4.  If you are stressed about driving on the right side of the road. . .you could always hitchhike. [...]

Submitted by Rediscovering Humanity While Traveling « Engaging Cultures on Fri, 04/01/2011 - 21:51.

[...] with hopes and hurts much like our own. Below are a few more of our experiences we had while hitchhiking in Jordan. Sitting in a truck, our driver “Hamza” (not his real name) told us of his broken heart. [...]

Submitted by Jon on Wed, 03/30/2011 - 07:33.

If you're going on a weekend, you won't be able to do everything, but you can still have a great time. If you're in Amman, I'd recommend "Hashem's" for local, inexpensive falafel, hummus, and fuul (hot mashed beans). There's also a great shawarma stand ("Reem") at the 2nd circle. If you get there around lunch time, you'll see a queue (more of a clump, actually). You won't have a hard time deciding at Reem because they only serve 1 thing (though you can order it without tomato and onions if you like). It's just takeaway. Delicious. "Al Quds" downtown serves mansaf. Though no restaurant can compare to eating it in a home, it's still delicious and essential to try while in Jordan. For a fancier dinner, "Fakhr El-Din" is excellent.

Petra is the crown jewel of sites in Jordan, so if you haven't been, it's a must. If you don't have the time, then the Citadel and Roman Amphitheater in Amman (both w/ interesting museums) are great. A trip to the Roman ruins in Jerash, about an hour north of Amman, is also a highlight.

Glad you're still coming. Even with the events last weekend, Jordan remains very safe.

Submitted by RMac on Tue, 03/29/2011 - 17:34.

Thank you for the information and insight. I was planning a trip and had fellow friends back out last minute over safety concerns. I'm still planning to go next weekend for several days. Could you recommend a few "local"(unique) places to eat, stay and visit?

Submitted by Conversations on the Road. . .in Jordan « Engaging Cultures on Sun, 03/27/2011 - 16:55.

[...] Below are a few more experiences we had on the road. . . [...]

Submitted by Daniel on Sat, 03/26/2011 - 16:27.

Thank you very much Malia. We hope to continue to represent the Jordan we have experienced and will experience in the future. Let us know if we can be of any help to Visit Jordan - North America.

Submitted by Daniel on Sat, 03/26/2011 - 16:19.

I wish we had counted the number of smiles seen and cups of tea we had; we lost count pretty early in our trip.

Submitted by Daniel on Sat, 03/26/2011 - 16:06.

Daniboy,

Thanks for taking the time and reading our blog post. I see many Asian tourist in Jordan. I am sure the people of Jordan will treat you with the same respect and acceptance we were shown. Come to Jordan and share your experience, it would be great to hear from your perspective as an Asian!

Submitted by Ken Kozel on Fri, 03/25/2011 - 22:20.

Thanks for keeping it real. I am an expat from the USA, living and working abroad here in Amman, Jordan. I love it here: the food, the people, the history, and the overwhelming hospitality. Your post and video captured the "heart" of Jordan. It truly is an amazing country. I feel blessed to be here ;-)

Submitted by Imogene on Fri, 03/25/2011 - 03:24.

There is something astonishing about the people of Jordan. I hold many people that i met with only briefly or had tea with so dear to my heart. Thank you for shedding some light on these wonderful Arab people. Some people say they picture Arabs with weapons. I picture them armed only with tea an a smile.

Submitted by Aiman Qawabah on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 18:08.

Jon & Daniel, thank you guys for this unique and outstanding nice article, exploring the love all around, you made me smile thank you again.

Submitted by An Island of Stability « Turkish coffee with a little sugar on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 15:13.

[...] I suggest that anyone interested in what it’s really like to live in the Arab world read this: Is Jordan Safe? [...]

Submitted by Jon on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 09:22.

We're encouraged by all the great comments! Thank you!

I had the honor of sharing mint lemonade and Arabic appetizers with "Mohammad Spices" last night. He said that everyone on his spice route keeps asking about us. They want us to come visit again. Over the top hospitality!

Submitted by myra on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 05:56.

this story is touching. It gives me a better perception of the Arab people. Good job. I would love to see Jordan.

Submitted by Traci on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 04:18.

Loved your story . . . I have been to Jordan myself, and although I was not there for very long, can attest to the hospitality of the people as well. They are full of warmth, generosity, and of course tea!

Submitted by Top Posts — WordPress.com on Thu, 03/24/2011 - 02:08.

[...] Is Jordan Safe? Here’s What We Found Out and Daniel Is Jordan safe?  To find out, we hitchhiked from the border of Syria to the Red Sea.  We went to cities [...] [...]

Submitted by Malia on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 19:35.

Thank you for helping us promote Jordan in North America, we need blogs like this and all the help we can get from ambassadors like you. We will be sending your blog to all our media outlets.
Shukran!

Submitted by Malia on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 19:34.

Here here! Could not agree with you more!

Submitted by SamiNazzal on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 18:52.

Great story and well written.. thanks alot for sharing..

Submitted by Alan Weinberger on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 18:48.

I have visited Jordan many times and it is a very unusual country; the essence of stability, owing to its warmth and friendless of its citizens which is truly unique as captured in this excellent Blog. It is all so true!

Submitted by Adel Ammari on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 10:40.

It has been an honor to have you in Jordan. And we wish to have more good people like you visiting us soon. Thanks for this wonderful post, I bet it will make every Jordanian happy :)

Cheers :)

Submitted by Yazeed Al Oyoun on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 08:01.

Very interesting to read about Jordan from a different perspective, glad that you've enjoyed it while it seemed short... You guys should definitely visit again!

Submitted by George Lanzon on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 05:26.

This was beautiful. It is exactly what life is all about.We are here for a very short time, why spend it in conflict and hard feelings.
Humanity should always come before religion.

Submitted by theyounggeneration on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 05:25.

This is such a wonderful blog. I'm actually planning on doing something like this soon, so this blog is really inspiring. Please keep writing!

Submitted by daseger on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 04:21.

Wow! A great demonstration of how good a blog can be. Thanks so much, Donna (streetsofsalem.com)

Submitted by Rawan on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 03:07.

Thank you for such a wonderful article. I am Jordanian, originally from Madaba, and it is so refreshing to finally read something positive about the place I call my home. I get sad that many people will not experience what you had due to fear and ignorance of the region.

Submitted by ali on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 03:03.

It seems you have had a nice trip which is my pleasure. this is jordan to be honest this is arabic culture.however hope to see u againg visiting our lovely country Jordan.

Submitted by omar on Wed, 03/23/2011 - 00:29.

this is jordan,,,,, the land of goodness...

Submitted by Faisal on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 21:52.

Thanks a lot for sharing this :)
God Bless Jordan !!

Submitted by Jennifer on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 21:36.

Wonderful story (I found you through the Queen's tweet). Next, I'd love to hear a story from a woman traveling in Jordan. Would her experience be similar?

Submitted by Ali on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 17:11.

Awesome post. Glad you enjoyed your stay in Jordan. This post truly makes me happy.

Submitted by Kim Gibson on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 16:56.

Reading this really makes me want to visit Jordan and experience this amazing culture! Thanks for sharing - well written!

Submitted by Cheryl on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 16:46.

Thank you for this wonderful story. I lived in Jordan for two years and I fell in love with the people there. I am not at all surprised at the way you were treated. They are some of the most hospitable people you will ever meet.

Submitted by Ghassan Alhayajneh on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 15:19.

Yes , Our Jordan as simple as that , safe , beautiful & welcoming all.

Submitted by ulfat abbas awan on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 15:15.

i m awan from pakistan. we love jordan and its fact that Majesty Queen Rania facebooked and tweeted this extraordinary blog post and now we know much abt jorden.
people of Jordan are welcoming and hospitable .
Thanks for showing the good picture of Jordan!

Submitted by Reem Kattan on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 14:33.

Lovely story! I think it's wonderful that you did this and it's a great way to get the message across that Jordan is safe and welcoming.

Submitted by Mary on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 14:16.

I am an American Citizen married to a Jordanian for 1 year now and we currently live in Jordan. Jordan is a beautiful country and the hospitality is extremely warming. After knowing what I've learned about Arabs I had to come see for myself to see if what I learned was true or not. Jordanians are wonderful, kind, loving, people who will treat you as one of them. :)

Submitted by gilda on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 14:14.

I'm from Dominican Republic,my country is well known by it beach and hospitality of people,but my God Jordan has won the trophy this story motivates me to visit,wao people seem soo nice,they care about foreigners a lot! People in this world should learn about this human quality and live like what we really are from Gods point of view"brothers and sisters,a big family" my respects to Jordan people :)

Submitted by MurElly on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 13:42.

Sounds like Jordan alright! Great story.. I Love it there :)

Submitted by Daniel on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 13:29.

I agree, Jordan has some of the most hospitable people I have ever met. We were overwhelmed. Jordan has amazing sites, but it would be a shame not to interact and learn from people while here.

Submitted by Wanderlust Has Struck | Meredith's Snazzy Jordanian Blog on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 13:26.

[...] side note regarding Jordan’s allure, Her Majesty Queen Rania facebooked and tweeted this extraordinary blog post by a couple foreigners that hitchhiked from the northern border with Syria to Aqaba down in the [...]

Submitted by Craig on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 13:22.

Jon-

As a four time visitor to Jordan, the last time with my then 5 year old son, THIS is the Jordan I've seen as well. Beautiful country, wonderful people. Inshalla, I hope to return one day soon with the rest of my family.

Submitted by Rakan on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 12:27.

Beautiful!

Submitted by tareq r on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 12:11.

Thanks a lot for showing the real side of arabs & jordan particularly! Showing how we welcome our guests, & respect all cultures no matter what race, relgion, color, or anything! It shows how much it means to us with our queens post on twitter for the link
I would like to thanks Jordanians for being what they are & keep it up jordan. That's what is called change!

Submitted by Thierry Vos on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 11:41.

This was such a heart-warming read.. So contrary to the many many articles we read "in the news" about the Middle-Eastern people. Having traveled a lot myself, I know not to judge a book by the review of some journalist, but to read it myself. This is truly remarkable and an example for others!

Submitted by alexy gourgourinis on Tue, 03/22/2011 - 11:31.

God bless you Jon! A great departure from the bullshit sensationalist media who are portraying Jordan as a country on the verge of a political uprising...Jordan is safe! What is unsafe is irresponsible reporting!

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